Mushroom Meadow In Spring by Chef Jan Hartwig, H&S Chef Of The Month
H&S Chef Of The Month
Chef Jan Hartwig
Interview With H&S Magazine
Who Is Jan Hartwig?
“I am the Chef de Cuisine of the restaurant Atelier (3 Michelin stars, 19 Gault & Millau points, 10+ Gusto pans) at Hotel Bayerischer Hof in Munich since May 2014. Following my initial culinary training at Dannenfeld, Braunschweig, I passed through further essential career stages working under the tutelage of Christian Jürgens at Kastell, Wernberg-Köblitz and GästeHaus Erfort, Saarbrücken. Between 2007 and 2014 I worked at Aqua, at the Ritz-Carlton in Wolfsburg, together with Sven Elverfeld (3 Michelin stars and 19,5 Gault Millau points).”
Type Of Cuisine?
“I want to take the guest on a journey of experience that they can remember afterwards. A visit to my restaurant should remain in the memory. How often do you go out to eat and a few days later you can’t remember what you ate? I want to create dishes that stay in the mind and are understandable. I want to satisfy and serve a culinary intellect and prepare an impeccable product excellently. I also want to inspire the guest and make them happy. I am also very concerned about animal welfare, sustainability and the footprints I leave in the world with my work, both for the guest and for the environment.
The focus is on regional and seasonal products for my light and creative cuisine. Regionalism and sustainability are important to me in the selection of ingredients. On the proven foundation of haute cuisine, I conjure contemporary and modern creations, but always without unnecessary extras, the recognition of the product is my foremost objective. In addition, the taste and the culinary experience are in the foreground and as the guest should have fun during dinner.”
What Inspired You To Become A Chef?
“My father is a trained chef and since I can remember, cooking accompanied my childhood. At least one time a day we used to enjoy a hot self-made dish. But it wasn’t just the culinary part that excited me – I loved sitting together with my family and chatting around the table over a good meal.”
What Is The Biggest Challenge You Have Faced In The Culinary Industry?
“The biggest challenge in my career so far is the global corona pandemic, I think everyone knows why. I hope we all get through it safely because the pandemic will cost a lot of people their livelihoods, and no one ever expected this bad.”
What’s Your Biggest Achievement In The Culinary Industry?
“Getting the third star was an incredible feeling! I really enjoy going to work, because I want to develop myself and for me, it is fun going to work. I want everybody to be satisfied.
Innegrit Volkhardt (General manager of Hotel Bayerischer Hof), my Atelier team, the guests but primarily I have to be satisfied with myself. The third star not only brings success, it also involves more responsibility and stress. The higher you raise, the deeper you can fall. Also, the pressure grows, as the guests are very critical and expect a lot. We did not only get three stars, we have to keep and win them every night.”
When It Comes To Cooking What Is More Important To You The Technique, The Ingredients Or The Creativity?
“All aspects are significant. I always choose one protagonist to form the idea of a dish so I put ingredients first, then creativity and afterwards technique.”
Recipe Of The Week: Mushroom Meadow In Spring
Mushroom Mousse by Chef Jan Hartwig
• 100g mushroom cream
• 50g whipped cream
• 1 sheet of gelatine
Dissolve the soaked and squeezed gelatin in the mushroom cream and stir cold until the mixture gels slightly. Fold in the cream and pour into a silicone mushroom mould. Freeze the mixture in the freezer.
• 500g brown mushrooms
• 500ml vegetable stock
• 30ml Madeira
• Thyme, rosemary
• 1 egg white
• Salt, pepper
Cut half of the mushrooms into small pieces and sauté slowly with a little butter and season lightly. Add the vegetable stock and slowly reduce to half. Strain the mushroom stock and let it cool completely. Lightly beat the egg white with Madeira and use it to clarify the mushroom stock.
Mushroom Jelly Coating
• 200ml mushroom essence
• 30g vegetarian gelatine
Dissolve the gelatin powder in the mushroom essence and boil once. Dip the frozen mushroom cream through the jelly with the help of a needle and let it thaw and temper at room temperature.
• 200g white mushrooms
Slice the mushrooms thinly and dry them in a dehydrator, then grind them finely in a moulinette and store them in a dry and airtight place.
• 75g panko
• 40g herb mixture (chervil, dill, parsley, tarragon, burnet)
Mix all the ingredients in a moulinette and salt lightly. Dry the crumbs in the oven at 60°C for 4-6 hours.
• 4 tablespoons Greek yoghurt
• Lemon juice
Mix all ingredients and season to taste.
• 50g herb mat
• 100g cream cheese
• Salt, black pepper from the mill
• Green Tabasco
• Lemon juice
Lightly beat cream cheese and mix with remaining ingredients.
• 2 pcs. Radishes
• Salt, sugar, canola oil, champagne vinegar
Cut radishes into 5mm thin slices and cut out round. Lightly salt and sugar the slices and put them in a small jar. Cover with a teaspoon of oil and a little vinegar and leave for 8 hours.
• Chive tips
• Garden cress
• Affila cress
• Tagetes flowers
• Enoki mushrooms
• white and brown beech mushrooms
• Small white mushrooms (sliced and dusted with mushroom powder)
Spread the herb cream on the plate with a palette knife. Arrange the mushrooms and all the other ingredients of the dish on it.
mushroom meadow by Chef Jan Hartwig