THE GREEN SCENE!!! – MERU NATIONAL PARK

With the heavy rains in many parts of Kenya this year, many people had to revise their planned accommodation in the national parks during the Christmas holidays. I decided to enquire about Meru National Park and was pleasantly surprised to find that although there had been much rain, many of the park roads were actually drivable. So in good faith, I proceeded to book at Kinna Bandas for 7 nights at the Bwatherongi campsite (This can be done through KWS–HQ offices near the Nairobi National Park main gate). The campsite is located near the park’s Head Quarters next to a stream with a swimming pool, the banda accommodation is basic (we tend to bring our own bedding). There are also no facilities here so bringing enough drinking water is critical, plus well-planned meal plans and cold storage boxes as there is no fridge. However, we enjoy “roughing” it a bit as it is almost like camping except we sleep in a banda with a small lounge and basic shower and toilet. Protection against insects is highly recommended including taking anti-malarial tablets and insect repellant.

On the day of our departure, we awoke early and packed a few remaining items in our car, including our family pets as we dropped them off at their “Pet hotel” accommodation venue in Westlands and then headed onto the Thika Highway and headed north towards Nanyuki. With the new highway, we progressed quite well, and soon we began to feel that we were actually on leave. We were excited to be on our way to the Meru National Park after many weeks of planning. I had decided to travel to Meru via Nanyuki, the other scenic option being via Embu, both routes circle around Mount Kenya to get to Meru town.

After nearly 3 hours of travelling, we arrived at the Trout tree restaurant and were greeted by a troop of colobus monkeys at the entrance, later we enjoyed a wonderful lunch of fresh fish. We decided to sleep one night at the Ole Samara B&B (about 400m from the Trout Tree restaurant). A great place to stay, very peaceful and refreshing. We particularly enjoyed the many species of birds, with at least 5 species of sunbirds also being sighted. After relaxing in the early morning and having a delicious brunch at the nearby Barneys restaurant, we continued along the scenic route past Nanyuki, as we approached Timau the clouds opened and revealed a beautiful view of Mount Kenya. We continued to Meru town and then turned off to complete the final 67 km along the C91 road to the Meru National Park entrance Murera gate (take care to watch for the turnoff sign – left turn). On the C91 Meru-Makutano-Maua highway, the turnoff to Meru National Park is just after Maili Tatu market, at a place popularly known as “Farm”. There is a bend on the road and some speed bumps before the junction on the left to the E817. You will see the signage for Meru National Park and Ikweta Safari Camp. The road is tarred to the Murera main Gate.)

We arrived at the Murera gate at about 14h00 just as it was getting quite hot. Total distance was 345 km (the route via Embu is slightly shorter at 310km with more hilly winding scenic roads). Thankfully we paid cash at resident rates and drove into the park along the main road to the park’s Head Quarters. Our immediate impression was the literal botanical explosion of life all around us. Every plant species seemed to be in overdrive growth and everywhere we looked there were verdant shades of many species of green plants interlaced with an abundance of many types of wildflowers. The grasses had already grown tall and lined the roads on both sides. Naturally, the plant growth had limitations regarding sighting animals, but just having the privilege of seeing the park thriving after such a long drought was a great experience.

We soon arrived at Kinna bandas and after unpacking and resting during the heat of the day, we rested a while and then prepared for the first of a number of game drives. It is important when self-driving to have a good detailed map of the park and be observant to the condition of the roads, especially during the wet season when many of the roads are not drivable in a normal saloon car, therefore a 4×4 vehicle with high clearance is recommended to ensure avoiding disappointment in not being able to see certain parts of the park. I would also recommend that any visit to the park includes at least one good camera, as there is so much beauty to capture. Staying at Kinna bandas also involves living “off the grid” for a while as there is no electricity and the water supply is not filtered, so showering has the advantage of getting an “instant tan”. I would, therefore, advise taking plenty of bottled water, decent cooler boxes with ice packs do help preserve food supplies. If possible take extra vehicle fuel as well (there is no petrol or diesel available inside the park, however, KWS does allow guests to leave the park to drive to the nearest village 7km from Murera gate to refuel if need be).

One thing we do like about Meru National Park is the incredible feeling of remoteness, you might almost feel as if you are the only people in the park at times. Naturally, early mornings and late afternoons are the best times for game drives. The park is not huge at 870 sq km and is virtually on the equator, however, it is also part of the greater Meru conservation area that includes Kora National Reserve. The park has a wide range of wild animals including the African elephant, buffalo, lion, leopard, cheetah, spotted hyena, striped hyena, eastern black rhinoceros, southern white rhinoceros, Grévy’s zebra, Gerenuk, Reticulated Giraffe, Fringe-eared Oryx, Eland, lesser Kudu, various gazelles (note the grants gazelle in Meru are a different sub-species), the tiny delightful dik-dik and hippopotamus in certain pools of the rivers. We had a sighting of a rarely seen serval as we approached the area around Elsa’s Kopje lodge. Then on another day had a sighting of 4 lions up a tree late one afternoon. Perhaps the lions climb for a number of reasons that possibly include avoiding insects, cooling down in the elevated shade, or having a good vantage point for spotting their next meal? After the heavy rains and resultant plant growth, the insect population also exploded and therefore attracted a profusion of birds, like bee-eaters. Birdlife is abundant with over 450 species being recorded at various times of the year including special species like the vulturine Guinea fowl, Somali ostrich and Pel’s fishing owl, we also had a sighting of a palm-nut vulture amongst other sightings. We also had a first-ever sighting of the largest spitting cobra species in Africa, a highly venomous Ashe’s Cobra (Naja Ashei) estimated to be over 2m long and with a very thick set powerful girth crossed to the road near Pippa’s grave. It is very rewarding to find a quiet place along one of the river drives and watch wildlife. The landscape and vegetation of Meru include bushveld and a series of at least 13 life-giving rivers with dense riverine forests of Doum and Raffia palm, including the Tana River. On a clear crisp morning or late afternoon, it is sometimes possible to enjoy a view of Mount Kenya in the distance. Meru is a truly magnificent wilderness that mere words cannot express, only those who have experienced this wonderful place will begin to appreciate the awesome creation that God put there.

Between the years 2000 and 2005, the Kenya Wildlife Service, helped by the International Fund for Animal Welfare (IFAW), restored Meru National Park from near ruins to one of the most promising tourist destinations in Eastern Africa, solving the parks poaching problem. IFAW donated $1.25 million to this major restoration project and with this money aided in improving the basic infrastructure and provided essential equipment and vehicles for law enforcement activities.

Meru was one of the two areas in which conservationists George Adamson and Joy Adamson raised Elsa the Lioness made famous in the best selling book and award winning movie Born Free. Elsa the Lioness is buried in this park and part of Joy’s ashes were scattered on her gravesite. Elsa’s Grave is at the southern end of the park, off the southern bank of the Ura River. Today there is a well-known lodge in the park called Elsa’s Kopje. Other accommodation includes Rhino River Camp near the main gate, there are also fully furnished KWS bandas at Murera main gate and Kinna bandas and Bwatherongi campsite.

After a rewarding and refreshing week in the park, it was time to return to Nairobi. We went for one last early morning drive and saw a breeding herd of elephants crossing the road as we detoured towards the main gate. The return route we decided on was the same as the initial route. Just past Nanyuki and just before Noru Moro is the well-known Trout tree restaurant, that is the perfect stopping place for a good meal and a stretch of the legs. The restaurant is built into a giant fig tree on a trout farm in a forest, at times colobus monkeys sit above the guests as they dine. We left the Trout tree restaurant and cruised back home with no incident except a bit of late afternoon traffic.

Thinking back on magnificent Meru now, this incredible part of Kenya needs to be kept intact as a wildlife legacy for future generations. Meru National Park is indeed a really wonderful wilderness, a tonic “dawa” for weary souls to rest and recover from the frantic ways of the world we live in. Apart from the wonderful wildlife sightings, we were really impacted on this particular visit by the “flower power in the green scene”.